Guest blogger Matthew Stewart, from the excellent Extremadura Guide takes us to the other side of Spain!
Take a Spanish region that’s the size of Belgium yet still undiscovered by the Brits and even overlooked by most Spaniards. Fill it with fairytale towns and villages, three UNESCO World Heritage Sites and a National Park. Top it off with the best ham in the world, no arguments allowed from Italy!
This isn’t a figment of some estate agent’s wild imagination or a tour operator’s over-the-top brochure; it’s just Extremadura, where I’ve made my home these last fifteen years.
North of Andalusia, south of Castile and east of Portugal, influences of all these ways of life are present in Extremadura, although it has an identity and personality all of its own. There’s a common misconception that its name should be translated as “extremely hard”, perhaps as a nod towards its sometimes harsh climate and wild landscape, but Extremadura actually means “beyond the Duero”, in a reference to the river.
One of the poorest regions in Spain, even other Spaniards often lapse into stereotype when talking about Extremadura. There were obviously always exceptions, but 20th century Spanish literature and cinema too often tended to depict Extremadura as a desolate and inhospitable backwater or featured exiles from Extremadura lost in the big city after migrating there in search of work. Buñuel, meanwhile, made a famous documentary in 1932 titled Tierra Sin Pan (The Land Without Bread) showing the terrible poverty endured by the inhabitants of an area called Las Hurdes in northern Extremadura.
Many Spanish city dwellers are only now starting to shake off this anachronistic image of Las Hurdes and by extension all the region. In fact, Extremadura’s benefitted hugely from E.U. funds over the last few years – spanking new motorways have sprung up all over the place, while the A.V.E. is also on its way (if Madrid are to be believed!)
Apart from possessing a birder’s paradise in Monfragüe National Park, Extremadura has a number of important towns and cities such as Mérida, which boasts the most outstanding set of Roman ruins to be found on the Iberian peninsula. Cáceres, meanwhile, offers a gorgeous old town, perhaps little known due to not having a stand-out monument that people can tick off their lists (like Granada’s Alhambra and Córdoba’s Mezquita) as they “do” Spain.
Extremadura’s quite simply a foodie’s paradise – the Iberico breed of pig, native to the peninsula, lives free on its plains (called dehesa). What makes it special is the delicious marbled fat running through the resulting ham, flavoured by the acorns that are scoffed before slaughter. Cheeses are also outstanding, especially Torta de la Serena, a soft sheep’s cheese served on toast like an exotic Welsh Rarebit.
Why, you might ask, aren’t these products more famous? Well, Extremadura’s traditionally been a region of farmers who just wanted to be paid a good price for their goods. Local pork was thus bought and turned into ham by companies in Guijuelo, olives were sold in bulk and canned elsewhere, wine headed for northern Spain in tankers, while olive oil ended up in Italy. Nowadays, a new generation of local businessmen is emerging, trying to make a name in its own right for this great food and drink.
Numerous generations used to be forced to leave Extremadura to make a living elsewhere – from the conquistadores to workers who abandoned their villages in the 1950s/60s, making for the Basque Country, Cataluña and even Central Europe. Meanwhile, very few foreigners have headed in the opposite direction – I can literally go for years at a time without encountering another Brit in the small towns where I live and work. It’s great for your Spanish!
Extremadura’s so vast that we’ll never be overrun by ex-pats. Here, still, is the chance to meet locals who aren’t sick of foreigners, who are intensely proud and often surprised that a forastero might choose to come to a part of the world that’s been overlooked and forgotten for so long. Here, still, is an “Unspoilt Spain” that exists way beyond the connotations of the cliché. I hope you’ll get the chance to discover us!
Many thank to Matthew Stewart, do please check out his excellent Extremadura Guide website!
Arpi Shively
17 Apr 09 at 2:35 pm
Hi Matthew, thanks for opening a door to Extremadura. I did think the name meant ‘intense hardship’ so I learned something new just now. I live in the Alpujarras, another region that has known real poverty, though we have a sizeable British community now and many new villas for them all to live in. I love the mix of residents and locals – or at least until I am fluent in Spanish.
You are welcome to check out my blog, Andalucid, (http://andalucid.typepad.com/andalucid) about life here in the Alpujarras and Granada.
All the best, Arppi
Ken
17 Apr 09 at 4:34 pm
Nice piece on Extramadura. I´ve only been a couple of times but have been wowed by the scenery, beautiful cities and towns, superb cuisine and the friendlines of the people. I really think Extremadura is going to come into it´s own over the next decade or so. It has a lot to offer. I found Merida fascinating and beautiful. The Roman ruins are incredible. Caceres is terrific too. I stayed in a hotel overlooking the plaza in Trujillo and that was really memorable. The Parador in Plasencia was lovely also. Extremadura definitely exceeded my expectations by a mile.
Matthew Stewart
17 Apr 09 at 4:55 pm
Hi Arpi,
Complete immersion can seem daunting at first, but I learnt a lot about myself the first few years I spent here!
Hi Ken,
Extremadura’s full of unexpected jewels – for example, the Parador in Zafra is a refurbished castle.
Vera Marie Badertscher
17 Apr 09 at 5:58 pm
Great article. I am attracted to Extremedura because it is kind of the “Wild West” of Spain, similar to the state of Arizona where I live. It also was the home of many of the explorers who established Spanish America–like Coronado. I found this site because my Google search for travel literature picked up your reference to literature. I blog about books and travel. Do you have any GOOD examples of books or movies about, or set in Extremedura?
xoanwahn
18 Apr 09 at 11:27 am
Great post! Thanks for this. I do think it’s a bit sad that Extremadura has been stuck with the reputation of being a backwater place. I think most Spaniards tend to avoid it rather than overlook it and the misconception about the name doesn’t help attract many tourists.
Laduque
18 Apr 09 at 6:07 pm
My husband’s family is from the Valle de Jerte, and I am convinced that I will retire there! I love the “untouched” by foreigner feel and being the only extranjero in the pueblo. I know that Extremadura will not stay this way forever nor remain a secret for long.
BTW, the best time to experience the Valee de Jerte is during cherry blossom season! The whole valley blossoms!
jambro
19 Apr 09 at 9:45 am
I have been to Extremadura a few years ago and I tell you, I was bowled-over by its raw beauty. Thank you for sharing this ‘undiscovered’ region of Spain. BTW you forgot to mention Guadalupe with its outstanding monastery and art collections and the charming medieval town of Trujillo.
Matthew Stewart
19 Apr 09 at 12:25 pm
Hi Laduque,
The Jerte’s gorgeous and still pretty free of foreginers, although it’s very popular with madrileños looking for a weekend away.
Hi Jambro,
I certainly didn’t forget about Guadalupe and Trujillo (how could I?!) – I have articles on both on my website. The problem is that I would have needed several different blog posts to include all the gorgeous places that Extremadura has to visit!
jonk
19 Apr 09 at 1:44 pm
Hey Matthew
You certainly did your best job to convince. However, I passed a few months in Madrid last year and at the time they had an advertising campaign for Extremadura. The overwhelming impression I got from it was that these guys were trying to gloss over the fact they had nothing worth seeing. And when one or two friends ventured off, they came back saying they had a good time but the photos or stories didn’t inspire more than polite nods.
A part of me has listened to the Spanish stereotypes. But it just appears to me that when we talk about Extremadura it’s a case of looking for the good things, as opposed to the good things being impossible to miss, like in Asturias or Cantabria.
Graham
20 Apr 09 at 10:49 pm
Extremadura sounds good too. Another overlooked part of Spain for me. Some friends of mine have been there and concur with your views. ie well worth the visit.
Genevieve McCarthy
23 Apr 09 at 6:04 pm
Totally agree with you, we also love Extremadura! Check out a post on the cheeses and wonderful local smoked paprikas made here – http://www.cellartours.com/blog/info/gourmet-extremadura-pimenton-torta-del-casar-medieval-trujillo-and-caceres
RayTibbitts
26 Apr 09 at 6:04 am
I guess I never really thought about it, but man, those Romans were everywhere, and all over the place in Spain.
If they found a reason to go to Extremadura, I’m sure I will also, someday.
Troy
14 May 09 at 10:56 pm
If you really want to get off the beaten path, try getting off the Extremaduran beaten path!
There are loads of things to see out here other than those mentioned…
but then again…maybe it’s best that way???
Jackie
2 Sep 09 at 5:50 am
Really enjoyed the website, so little is mentioned of Extremadura. We are a family of six who have visited ten times in the last five years having just returned in August we endeavour the long drive from France with (dog in tow this time) and our return is hopefully welcomed by our Spanish friends whom we are known to as the ‘loco’ mad English family . We stay in a small village known as ‘Pueblo de Obando’ inbetween Caceres and Badajoz . I can only describe as ‘paradise in a bottle’ . Having learnt a little more Spanish through our very kind friends to say our vacation as included Wild Boar Hunting, Horse riding in the wilderness, crushing olives by hand lessons and seeing the birth of a foal first hand are just a few of my families experiences. My eldest son spent two months with our new Spanish friends whilst studying for his exams and I was amazed to see a very mediocre student achieve an A* grade from merely being thrown into Spanish life with no choice but to learn the language or simply not eat> We had the added bonus that our friends Rosario and Geraldo are teachers but they didnt make it simple for him. I wanted to say ‘thank you’ Extremadura – all that you have given us and long may you reign. I intend to publish my journal very soon about Extremadura. A smile goes a long way and throwing yourself into a new life, a new culture helps a little too!
James
21 Sep 09 at 9:34 am
I agree that Extremadura is a wonderful place and thankfully still unknown to many expats. I am British and lived in Barcelona for 10 years before relocating here recently for work (I am lucky enough to work with jamon iberico). While I love the fact that this is still ‘real Spain’, I would still love to hear from other English speakers in the area, to get tips about living here. I am living in a small town near Badajoz, any ideas? Many thanks.
Carl
21 Sep 09 at 9:42 pm
Between Merida and Catheres is one of the best preserved dormens in Spain. To reach it, ask at tourist office in Merida or Catheres. My recollection is that there is a very small sign which says dormen. You walk about 1/2 hour on an old Canada and all of a sudden, there it is. The stones used are quite large and one has to marvel how the people moved them the distance realized.