Last week we were in Asturias, staying in Gijon. It’s a small city, industry (pretty heavy), on one side of a river, a lovely old town and beach on the other:

Even in early March, the grannies are on the beach in the morning, getting undressed and stuffing their clothes into giant plastic bags while they prepare to brave the waves for their daily swim.

Postcard views from the old town:

And what food! The menu del dia’s in Gijon comprise FOUR courses, not three, and would often include a fish that you might pay 20 euros for in Madrid alone – in Gijon the whole 4-course meal cost around 9.50 Euros.

One more photo of Gijon, The wonderous Gran Cafe Dindurra. A haven for old floor-tile fetishists (like me!):

And a final one from down the road in Ribadesella:

Many thanks to Raquel for passing on this classic read in the Times: “British tourists avoid Spain because it’s ‘no longer foreign enough’”

…which says a lot more about the Brits (who aren’t aware of strange out-of-the-way places like, say Madrid) than Spain, obviously.

I love this line about a recent survey on British holiday choices:

The survey showed that the US was the most popular destination measured by the growth of bookings, with some British tourists attracted by the prospect of “meeting a celebrity”.

[Head falls into hands in desperation...]

Here’s an interesting article by Richard Morley about the increasing problem of pickpocketing in Madrid. It starts out by describing the experience of a new and more sinister approach I haven’t heard of before, the ’show me your passport, I’m a policeman’ intimidation approach, which sounds most unpleasant.

Madrid is getting a deserved, and bad, reputation of this sort of tourist-targeting street crime now, which is a real shame (we used to say, “Oh, that sort of thing only happens in Barcelona…”)

It’s about time Spain got tough on this. If they can cut this kind of crime down in other big cities, then why not here?

We were meant to be in Asturias today, checking out places that we might want to live one day, but energies dictated otherwise, and we’ve had to put it off for now. But we’ll get there in the end, to that quiet mountainous province in the north, where the landscapes are so beautiful they just make you want to dance…

(Click pics to enlarge, a bit)

To celebrate a change in the blog decor here at NotesinSpanish.com (and the fact that I can now display much bigger photos!), here’s an old favourite from the archives, does anyone know where it is, and what this town is famous for? Hit the comments link above!

OK, there are a million reasons why Spain is great, and after the first three entries, I could continue this series forever… But I’m off on holiday to find even more reasons why Spain is great, and in the mean time, I wanted to wrap this series up by asking YOU why you think Spain is great.

But first of all, here are my final thoughts, a few more of the things that Make Spain Great:

1. Professional waiters who’ve been in the job for life and don’t do a bad job while simultaneously trying to charm you for tips.

2.Eating and drinking on outdoor Terrazas in summer when the air buzzes with happiness.

3.Spanish girls in summer (OK, all year round…)

4. The amazing diverstiy of landscapes from the green north to the deserts of Almeria, the mountains, plains and sierras…

5. Morcilla.

6. San Sebastian, Granada and Cadiz.

7. The fact that friendly Spanish people aren’t scared to touch your baby’s feet.

8. … or touch each other in conversation without flinching.

9. Dos besos.

10. Over to You – What would you put at number 10? Answers in the comments below please!

In the last in our current Guest Blogging series, Justin Perlman shares the kind of Madrid secret that money just can’t buy…

Shortly after moving to Madrid two years ago, a local friend of mine offered up some sound advice that I had never heard before, but my wife had pointed out is quite common. He told me when seeking out a good restaurant to look for the three B’s.

I thought to myself, I didn’t realize the Better Business Bureau (BBB) existed here in Spain. He proceeded to tell me that these three B’s are the characteristics one looks for in a first-rate restaurant that won’t break the bank; Bueno, Bonito, and Barato. It’s with these three qualifiers I wanted to share a diamond in the rough, a true gem of a restaurant, and speaking of treasures, this too is hidden below the surface. That’s right; you have to go subterranean to arrive at this Chinese Restaurant.

For two years, my wife and I had walked through Plaza de España and always detected a strong scent of what appeared to be some type of Comida Asiatica. We just couldn’t put our finger on exactly where it was coming from. I had suspected that perhaps the aroma was escaping from a nearby vent that had been re-routed to the Plaza. I could not have predicted that the restaurant actually resided below our feet.

Very recently, my wife commented on this to a friend of hers who’s a Madrileña (proud of her fine city, and is actually fourth generation, which as anyone can tell you is a rare find in this city – Most Madrileños are first or second generation at best.)

Right as this friend heard “Plaza de España” and “Comida China” she replied, “it’s called Jia Xiang Xiao Chi” (pronunciation may vary, but keep in mind this friend has been taking Chinese for two years and will be venturing off for a year abroad in China, so she was definitely a good choice of those to ask about the hidden restaurant!)

Without further ado, we went to Jia Xiang Xiao Chi aka Chinese Food Under Plaza de España the next day. It was a colder than average evening here in Madrid and perhaps some hot and spicy soup, fried noodles, etc. could do the trick. If you’re walking from Gran Vía downhill towards Plaza de España you would walk as if you’re heading to the main fountain, only to march down one flight of stairs towards the parking garage.

As you approach the restaurant you’ll notice a travel agency catering towards Chinese residents living in Madrid, a thriving community in the city of over 50,000, so I should mention one has the option to find a wide range of Chinese restaurants in town.

We were lucky enough to get seated right away. I should point out there are only a handful of tables so it’s first come, first served if you want to eat in, while many people do order takeout. We found the staff friendly and attentive, greeting you almost immediately after hitting the seat. They came by our table and took our order, while extending their hand out to offer you the choice of using a fork or chopsticks. After we made our utensil selection, it was time for the main event.

The menu for the non-Chinese speaker consists of 20 items, broken down into two columns and found on one side of a laminated white page. For those who speak Chinese, there are more options. The menu was clear and concise so it’s easy to make your selections. You know a place has appeal when you see others at nearby tables commenting on their neighbors’ selections.

We noticed many people had the dumplings so we ordered those without hesitation as well as hot & sour soup, a chicken dish, fried noodles, and ribs, finishing up with a fried sesame roll. The dumplings were bursting with flavor and mixed well with their soy sauce/vinegar side for dipping. The chicken was tender and cooked just right. The noodles were flavorful and veggies remained crispy, a perfect combo.

Soup provided spice while not overdoing the zip. Hot sauces are on each table so for the bold, a touch of added picante is not a problem. The ribs melted in our mouths, and effortlessly pulled away from the bone, were juicy and downright delicious. Sesame roll was satisfactory, but 5 out of 6 isn’t too bad, plus there were a few other dessert options we’ll try next time.

Most of the dishes fall under 5 Euros so you can order a range of food, fill your bellies, and enjoy a meal for around 20 Euros total for two people, not too bad in this city considering an average Menu del Dia can range from 9 to a whopping 25 Euros.

We ate our meal and took in the sights and sounds of our surrounding environment, from the hustle and bustle of people getting up and sitting down, to the 24” TV mounted up high with a DVD of flashy music videos.

The clientele that night consisted of 50% locals, a small percentage of tourists, and the remaining 45% or so of other Chinese clients – this poll includes the long line which began to form outside. People patiently waited outside the restaurant as one table at a time opened up to let in new customers. All in all it was an adventure worth repeating time and time again.

So, as you can imagine, this is undoubtedly our new favorite Chinese food hotspot. For those passing through Madrid looking for a lunch or dinner that’s Bueno, Bonito, and Barato, I highly suggest Jia Xiang Xiao Chi aka Chinese Food Under Plaza de España… you won’t regret it. I know we’ll be back soon enough!

Follow Justin’s continuing adventures in Madrid on Twitter!

Guest Blogger Jose Patino writes of important realisations on a trip to the north…

I’d come back to Spain to spend some time rediscovering the country I’d come to love as a nineteen year old. I wanted to find her as an old flame that had not changed, but became jilted as it was not the same country that I had left. I went north to visit a friend who was studying in Bilbao hoping to discover something new.

I walked along the Nervion River and took a ride up an outdoor elevator (only in Spain!) through the expansive Parque Extebarria with its amazing vistas of the city that sits in the valley of emerald hills. I walked into a lazy café outside of the Basilica de Nuestra Senora de Begona, and this is what I wrote:

Here it lays, the Spain that I’ve been looking for since I left so long ago. It is a place equally exotic and comfortable. The Basque country was always some place alien and foreboding. The preconceptions of Basque separatism cast a cloud over this place, making it seem less inviting than Andalucia or Madrid; places that I’ve known and have embodied essential Spain. This place lies hidden like a glen in the middle of a forest.

It feels different than the Spain that I am familiar with. It is clear that this place remained hidden from the Moors and all of the other modern day invaders of Spain. The great catalyst of the changing face of Spain has again run against the mountains and washed back like waves against a bluff.

My friend Karina is in a rush to go back to America and begin the rat race again. She loves it here, and she knows that she can come back, but I didn’t have the heart to tell her… you can never come back. This thing that she’s found here is not a place that can be easily found again; to be reached by plane, train, or bus.

This is a moment. A moment in life that once left may never be had again. Unlike a place, moments can never be returned to.

I’ve spent the last eight years trying to reconnect with mine, and I thought that this was my opportunity. I rented a room in Madrid wishing and hoping for it again, but as I walked the streets, I began to feel something at the corner of recognizance. I didn’t realize it until I arrived here in Bilbao.

Spain has opened to the great immigration of our time. It is no longer the isolated peninsula whose modest economy and society kept the hordes at bay on its beaches. It is now a pluralistic society seemingly displeased with the fact that it has become so.

There is no magic or singularity in it which, I realize now, was what distinguished it in the first place. It was so different from my American society, but now with its new found European prosperity; its problems are now similar: poverty, immigration, housing, finance, obesity, decline of education, and loss of traditional values.

I used to think that the Basques were being stubborn and selfish by ardently refusing to centralize, but after only one day cut off from Madrid, I realize what they have been fighting for; what they are fighting against.

The fight is to remain free, yes, but more importantly it is the fight to remain singular, special and unique as they always have been. The fight to protect their identity and their culture may be in vain. They have built their country behind the mountains and from places like this, the reconquista began.

Hopefully their mountains are still strong enough to ward off the tsunami of globalization and help maintain their singularity. Moments like these are vital, and if missed, they can never be had again.

Guest Blogger Lisa Risager takes us off the mainland, to an often-ignored paradise in the Canary Islands…

This island is a continent, and if you were born and bred here you wouldn’t call La Concha in San Sebastian the most beautiful beach in Spain. My mistake… it is of course Las Canteras!

Most visitors to Gran Canaria head straight for the south, the sun, the sand, the sangria… and so did we. A perfect place for a family holiday. Sunbathing for the teenage daughter, scuba diving for the 12-year old son and his father – and for me? I pottered about which is what I love doing on my holidays.

Warm days in the sun, sitting in the shade at a cafe, drinking cafe con leche, reading a paperback from the hotel lobby. I wasn’t bored… but jumped at the chance to join the scuba divers on their excursion to El Cabron marine reserve. And the nearby town Arinaga. “You’ll like it”, Annette said. “Take a walk by the shore and there’s a little cafe by the old lime mines.”

Annette was right and the next time we returned to Gran Canaria we didn’t even consider returning to the wonderful climate of those southern beaches. We headed straight for Arinaga in the municipality of Agüimes. So should you.

This year we went back for a longer stay at Nautilus Apartments. I was working most mornings but the afternoons were spent walking by the sea, stopping for a coffee or a drink, relaxing and trying to be as laid back as the locals. This is a town where you actually greet strangers you meet, where you chat with the shopkeepers – if you happen to speak any Spanish, that is – and where you do take that siesta in the middle of the afternoon.

Excursions were made to Guayadeque, Agüimes, Santa Lucia, Telde and Las Palmas.

We shopped for dinner at the local shops or headed down to the muelle for some pescado fresco del dia and cool white Bermejo wine from Lanzarote.

On weekends the locals meet at the Universitad de Autonoma de Arinaga by the muelle. Cold beer and tapas on a first-come-first-served basis. The food is a plate of cheese or a hardboiled egg or a dish of fish, potatoes and mojo picante and it’s good! The place is only open on Saturdays and Sundays and only for a couple of hours from noon till the food is sold out. I’ts a tiny, tiny place with only a bar and two small tables so most people sit outside on the steps.

At the Vaqueria you can buy fresh cheese and if you sit down for a cafe con leche you could try adding some gofio like the locals do. I’m not recommending it, though, it seems to be an aquired taste…

The history of the Canary Islands and the indigenous people is fascinating as is the crafts and the caves. In the valley of Guayadeque you can visit the Centro de Interpretacion de Guayadeque before heading into the valley with the caves.

The old towns of Agüimes and Telde are nice places to wander about. The Podcasts of Gran Canaria are great for preparing a visit, but not so great for actually listening to while walking the tours. In Vecindario you can shop till you drop if that is what pleases you.

For some stunning views and hairpin bends on the way visit Santa Lucia. Have a cup of coffee at the cafe with the view but pop inside Casa Antonio across the road for your meal. Rule of restaurants in Gran Canaria: pick the restaurant without a view for the best meals and don’t be afraid to ask which dishes are the most delicious.

And if you really miss a sandy beach – take the Guagua (bus 25) to Faro de Maspalomas.

All of these places are quite close to Arinaga. If you get a little restless – and this does happen sometimes when you’re trying too hard to relax – you have the whole continent of Gran Canaria to explore and even though it is small it is a grand, grand island!

I’ll be back. Untill then I’ll do my best to learn to speak Spanish.

Do check out Lisa Risager’s blog for more of her wonderful writing!

Guest blogger Hollis Duncan walks across Spain …

My best friend, Thompson, and I walked the Camino de Santiago together in July 2004. We walked 813.3 km (505 miles) beginning in Pamplona and ending in Finisterre on the Atlantic coast of Galicia.

Although the Oficina del Peregrino in Santiago de Compostela will insist that you acknowledge “Spirituality” as one of the reasons for your pilgrimage before awarding you a Compostela, it’s virtually impossible for anyone to walk 28 days anywhere — never mind across a country as spectacular as Spain — and not have a spiritual experience … of some kind. Although many do not set out on a spiritual journey, the Camino ends up being one anyway. Quizá sea la magia del Camino de Santiago.

Along the way, Spaniards of every shape and size shout Buen Camino at peregrinos (pilgrims) wishing them a pleasant journey. Los peregrinos amble over mountains, through big cities, remote villages, across the hot, pancake-flat Meseta of central Spain, and finally, through the lush hills of green Galicia.

For every story I could tell ten more about all of the things we experienced on our way to Santiago. How I found a seashell on the beach at Finisterre and proposed to my beautiful girlfriend Luisa the night we finished, or how many charming churches we saw. Or about all of the amazing food we ate — jamón, chorizo, pulpo (y caldo) a la gallega, pimientos de Padrón, queso, aceitunas, y pasteles. Or the people we met — Gábor, a Hungarian hiker-converted-cyclist; les Québecois; John the Dane; the Americans Dave, Anne, and a power hiking couple from Mt. Diablo, Ca.; and the Austrians who led us by a mile with their trekking poles.

When you arrive in Plaza del Obradoiro in Santiago and strain your neck looking up at la catedral más bonita de España, maybe, if you’re like me, you will notice your arms covered with goosebumps; your hairs standing on end as straight as little ropes!

That’s when I had an epiphany. Although I thought finishing the Camino at the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela would represent the end of my journey, I realized the opposite was true: this was not the end of my journey but only the beginning …

El Camino is a metaphor for life — for our respective paths, the roads we each choose to take on our life’s journey. Some follow well-worn paths; others take less-traveled routes. No way is wrong, but everyone’s Camino is different.

On the Camino, there are many lessons to be learned. One of the best bits of advice we got was — despacio (slow down) — which fellow pilgrims and Spaniards alike kept telling us; after awhile we heeded this advice and traveled as far, but with fewer aches and pains and much more enjoyment.

I leave the ending open … to invite others who have walked the Camino de Santiago to share their experience; also to ask readers what other Caminos are out there? What epic walks / adventures have you done, heard about, or are planning to do that rate right up there with the Camino? Can’t wait to read your responses!

Buen Camino … a todos

Hollis Duncan is an independent graphic designer based in New York. He and his wife, Luisa, who is from Santiago de Compostela, are moving to Barcelona this summer.